Severe case of red eye for everyone, but spirits good and even though we’re carrying a mountain of luggage, we manage to avoid any surcharges which seems a good omen for things to come. We tucked into a dodgy Dublin airport breakfast and even though it might be our last chance to eat pork for a while we still go with the veggie option. Having cleared security, Hillas had to avail of some duty free which prompted Colm to remember to buy some adapters and so on with the first leg of the journey. Our pilot did well in getting us to Paris half an hour ahead of schedule as we only had 45 minutes to transfer, and after the longest taxi to the terminal and Flora getting an extra search at security we were still ahead of ourselves so with all the extra time we decided to treat ourselves to cafe et croissants…. which turned out to be rank! Ah well, onwards and upwards. The last four people through the gate – no prizes for guessing who. We got on the bus and after sitting for several minutes drove all of 200 metres before disembarking the bus and boarding our plane. Simon and Hillas chose their meal well (Hindu Vegetarian) as it arrived a good twenty minutes before everyone else’s regular meals, although it did contain fish which doesn’t say a lot for Hindu principles (according to Air France at any rate).
And so we arrive in Tel Aviv, four nervous clowns in the most secure airport in the world. I don’t know if it was our innocent expressions, the time of day or divine intervention from the gods of clowning but we sailed through, picked up our luggage, and realised we were one clown short of a laugh. And to mke matters worse it was Colm, who, in addition to having all the contact details for the next two weeks, also had all our expenses….. Thankfully, after what seemed like an age, he emerged on the right side of the security and we pressed on. We picked up our hire car and after some debate decided on hiring a GPS, which was installed and explained by a lovely girl called Oali who happened to be a fan of Irish dancing. After hearing that Colm was an ex member of the Riverdance (yeah yeah I know..) she jumped at the chance for a quick reel, and if our schedule had allowed would have been our tour guide gratis.
The Hotel Ophir. A lovely building on the outside, it was more like a building site within although the welcome was warm – if a little Fawltyesque. Even after our long travels Colm still manged to find the energy to haggle the price back to something like what he had been led to believe it to be and by now food was definitely on the menu. We managed to find a gorgeous place, Little Prague, serving goulash, dumplings and steins of Czech beer. We managed the equivalent of about one between us before returning to our rooms an crashing monumentally.
Jan 17
After a peaceful night, we awoke to an unseasonably hot day (24 C) and descended back into the building site for a hearty breakfast there was a little time to wander through one of the markets of Tel Aviv and marvel at the size of the avocados and aubergines (amongst other things) and catch a quick glimpse of the Mediterranean Sea. Flora also managed to find some graffiti depicting, of all things, a red nose clown – keep those omens coming. We set off for the circus school in Tiv’on and decided to have lunch in Haifa. Oali, as we christened our GPS, had some strange mannerisms and timing of instructions which prompted Flora, driving, to simply ignore her but even though we hit rush hour in Haifa we soon found a suitable place for lunch – the first of many falafel feasts (and superb coffee).
On arrival in Tiv’on we found the home of Hanita (our guardian angel) who welcomed us in with herbal tea and cake and general warmth until we suddenly realised that time was beginning to press and we would have to hurry if we were going to have time to prepare for our first show – in its new abridged format. Firstly though, we had to pop in to our accomodation and get the keys. Two beautiful self catering cabins run by an old farmer who quoted George Bernard Shaw to us, and caused us to ponder the difference between a thief and a robber. And off again at a gallop, arriving into the circus school, where there was a class on the stage but in the end that didn’t matter as we had to move everything at the last second onto the ground in front of the stage. Feeling slightly frazzled, we kicked off to an audience of enthusiastic young children at the front with several rows of slightly less inspired teenagers behind. Thankfully, they were all well behind us by the end and so we had a chance to relax and ponder the fact that we had breakfast in Dublin airport yesterday. Not for long, mind you, as we were soon immersed in the workshop – the first to involve the three groups present together, Israeli Jews, Israeli Arabs and a group of Ethiopian youths. A wonderful way for a group of clowns without borders to begin their trip.
Jan 18
After our first night in the Grapefruit yard, we found ourselves more or less well rested and enjoyed freshly pressed juice off the trees for breakfast and took off in plenty of time to meet with Hanita at the arranged spot. Hanita joined us in the car and we were on our way to Kaabiya Arabic Primary Middle school. On approaching the school gates Simon slowed down and exclaimed ‘There’s a guy beside me reversing in the car!’…and so there was, he was a friend of Hanita’s who works at the school and promptly showed us the way in. (He also sported the most impressive moustache ever…).
We quickly got changed and set up for the show on a stage in the school hall, while 400 impatient and very, very excited primary school children knocked and banged on the doors, waiting to be let in. After a little official introduction by the head master, we performed a rocking show to a crowd of rapt and smiling faces. The kids really loved the show and we were delighted when even some of the teachers proved good sports and joined in Colm’s bell number.
After we’d finished the show the kids stormed towards the stage, all trying to shake our hands and say hello, which we almost managed…then we were treated to food and drink in the principal’s office. We were joined by Hanita, Eran (former state attorney and now supporter of cross-community work), Barbara Zasloff (President of the International Centre for Contemporary Education), the principal of the school and our moustachioed friend for a very informative and at times very emotional discussion of our work, their work, the Palestinian situation etc. The principal assured us that he had never before witnessed the children in his school have so much fun and thanked us deeply. Colm talked about possibilities of touring Gaza and Edan and Barbara promised to help CWB achieve that goal as much as they could. It was also very important and encouraging to see Israelis supporting the Arab cause…there is hope.
After a well earned rest in the afternoon we set out to meet Hanita at her house, before heading to our next gig. Whilst enjoying offerings of spiced tea and dried fruit, Hanita gave us some background information about the school we were about to visit, a full time residential institution for kids who have been expelled from normal school for various reasons. Following her directions (Simon earned his first star in map reading skills) we arrived at Ramat Hadassa, were greeted at the gate and taken to the Sports Hall by one of the kids. It was pleasant to have enough warm up time and a little chat with Moshe, a teacher, about the school as well.
To be honest we were all slightly nervous about performing in front of a bunch of teenagers who seemed to be mainly interested in hip hop music, but we managed to get them on our side by interrupting Moshe’s introduction with repeated wrong entrances. We agreed that that was our best show so far, we really started playing with each other and the crowd, rocked our skill numbers and were promptly rewarded with a standing ovation by our audience.
Afterwards we were invited to one of the residential homes, that are shared by around 20 children, who again served us food, a rare treat of potatoes and soup alongside the traditional fare, followed by an exquisite desert of chocolate, Bamba and Coke…Thus high on adrenalin and preservatives, we spent two hours laughing and chatting with the kids and their live in carer from Yemen. The craic was mighty, the kids wanted to adopt us (or marry us) … and after the obligatory good-bye photograph and a 20minute good bye, we were off again to our homes in the grapefruit yard.
We all agreed that we’d had an amazing day, with two beautiful shows that had lifted our spirits and inspired us for the rest of our trip.
Jan 19
We start on the road on time but how we get to our destination of Ramallah has its difficulties. We type in Ramallah into our GPS but the Israeli map reader doesn’t acknowledge it. The irony! We go for the more tried and tested GPS – Flora. She finds the motorway and we speed off viewing many picturesque landscapes, bridges and tunnels. The Israelis love their bridges. Why put a road on the ground when you can suspend it in the sky.
The closer we get to the border, the more the conflict becomes apparent. Flowers and trees are replaced by metal netting and concrete walls. We find a turn off and head to the check-point. Wrong one!
Check point 2, and everyone has passports ready. I’m under the impression that you should only talk when talked to. Slowly we creep to the border and………. nothing. No stopping. No soldiers. Sweet.
Within seconds the landscape changes dramatically. Gone are the pristine motorways and welcome to narrow roads with no markings and people driving towards you on the wrong side (even at roundabouts).
We finally get to the circus school by getting a personal convey by Shadi, (circus school teacher and office worker). We meet the rest of the crew who are warm and welcoming, as are all the people we meet. After seeing their space which is a basketball court in the secondary school we sit and relax. We sit, eat and hear personal stories of how people are treated by Israel. It becomes apparent that life is truly difficult and somewhat overwhelming. Now that I hear both stories of the conflict all I think about is how stupid war is. Fear is abundant and suffocating a lot of the good work done by charities like the circus schools we have met already. After a great feeling of doing shows the day before you now sit and think. Are we actually doing any good?
Later that night after arriving at our hotel we sit and review the day. A much needed time for me who is rather tired and somewhat confused. After reassurances from our team as a collective we retire to our cold rooms armed with hot water bottles bought at the local pharmacy and get some much needed rest.
Jan 20th
After 2 bumpy hours of driving we arrive at the Freedom Theatre, Jenin, a ray of light in a refugee camp. We are still bleary eyed from getting up at the crack of dawn as we step out onto the broken pavement with our guides from the Palcircus, Fadi and Nayef, who have organised the show for us. (Shucran!)
Smiling children rush to meet us as we unpack the car and load into the theatre. Colm sticks a pair of socks under his hat as dog ears and chases the laughing children- Wooof, WOOOF!
Just as we were ready to do our show Flora plugs in our ipod and the socket short circuits with a loud bang – Oops! This is only the beginning.
We start the show playing a game with the audience – they blow us over when they breath out, the clowns slide, tumble along the floor and into the back wall as the children blow a happy gale at the stage.
Five minutes into the show the power cuts out completely and all the lights go out in the theatre, the kids scream with excitement, the clowns unperturbed by the darkness play with the gift that has been given them until the lights come back on. There is another cheer and we continue into Simons now famous football number. The kids are wowed when he spins a ball on his finger and places another spinning ball on top it. Hundreds of eyes light up with disbelief.
Flora’s hula hoops fly to every girls delight, Hillas juggles newspapers while defying Iasac Newton on top of a ladder and Colm hits the kids on the head with an oversized inflatable banana while they play the ‘Blue Danube’ on musical bells.
“Walk this Way” pumps out on the speaker and the children clap along enthusiastically as the clowns flip around the stage with comic turns and deft skill until suddenly the power cuts out on the speaker and the music stops (as does the clapping and the flips). Everybody looks to Hillas as he miraculously raises the sound from the dead (we are in the Holy Lands after all). We bust back into the high energy number and the clapping resumes. To finish – the audience literally blows the clowns off the stage with gusts of wind (mingled with laughter).
Outside a real storm rages and rivers flow down the streets of Jenin as we float the car back to Ramallah through check points with frozen peas soothing sore backs and bottoms.
Jan 21st
In the morning we went to Palcircus, we got a little lost on the way but eventually found it, thanks to Mr Fish and Chip. We had a quick meeting with our hosts to plan the workshop, which was specifically aimed at the trainers who work at Palcircus: Nayef, Mays, Fadi and a group of older kids who have worked and performed with them for quite some time.
We started off with a Name Game, which by default turned into an improvisation and although that was not altogether intended, it actually gave us a good idea of the participants’ performance abilities and we had a good laugh too!
After a quick warm up, Flora and Hillas taught Partner Acrobatics, and Simon and Colm taught Unicycle and Juggling. In general, the guys are highly focused and very eager to learn i.e. a joy to work with. At the end Hillas tried a hand to hand with Nayeff and almost got it… ‘I will dream about this tonight’ (quote Nayef).
We all noticed the marked difference between the refugee camp and the ‘normal’ Ramallah, in terms of lack of infrastructure (bad roads, rubbish etc). Our audience, a bunch of excited smiling kids, was ready and waiting and we quickly set up for the show and entered, clown noses at the ready! However we were not prepared for Clowns Without Borders on Ice. To do us a favour the organisers had washed the tiled floor prior to our arrival, which made the floor extremely (!!!) slippy, which lead to some funny and some dangerous moments. Nevertheless we managed to play a great show, have lots of fun and kept looking out for each other to avoid broken bones. After the show we enjoyed a bit of play with some of the kids who were eager to meet us, especially some of the girls who had taken a shine to Flora.
After clearing up we were invited to tea and biscuits in the office and on the way out Flora did a little impromptu handshake and handstand workshop with a few of the kids who were still there – obviously intrigued by their strange visitors and eager to play more.
In the evening we had the most gorgeous dinner at a local restaurant in down town Ramallah followed by coffee and hooka in the infamous “Stars and Bucks” – corporations eat your heart out. We planned the workshop for the following day and then went back to the hotel for some friendly chats with our fellow guests from the Palestinian Athletics Association.
Tired but happy we went to bed, ready for another day….
Jan 22nd
Another early start for the clowns. It was off to the Palcircus school again where we had a packed day of workshops and performance. We led a 4 hour workshop which was taken by the local Ramallah group. Another workshop was taken by an eager group of acrobats from Jenin who left at dawn to get there. The kids like most people we met where superb. Sucking up information like leeches…. (nice ones of course)
The workshop was full on. Who would have thought we could get through so muchwork – skipping, clown, diabolo, juggling, unicycle, hula hoop , aerial tissue and a multitude of acrobalance and tumbling.
While the preparation of the show which had moments of madness – Hillas having the joys of playing with the local electrics. Simon and Flora warming up around the enthusiastic participants still training we finally got the clan together 2 minutes before the show and then we were off
The show itself was memorable as always. A highlight for all was ‘Colms bell number, young kids wandering all over the stage not following instructions, taking strops and being funny.
That evening we went to dinner and talked over the days proceedings. It becomes noticeable that this is the only time we can reflect, chat to each other and relax.
Jan 23rd
Finally, a HOT shower. The athletics team have left and as there are now only 4 guests – us clowns – we can now have a real scrub. Well fed and fighting fit, we headed off at 8.07 to pick up our chauffeur at 8 sharp. With Shadi at the wheel we were all free to relax and take in the scenery (in between closing our eyes and praying to whichever God we might choose to deliver us intact through the traffic of Ramallah and beyond). En route we picked up Jessica, our new American circus pal.
We had a slightly longer journey to Hebron than anticipated as in Palestine journeys are rarely as the crow flies, or even as an inebriated vulture might fly. We unloaded into the theatre, a beautiful old theatre at that. The audience would be arrayed in an arc before us and the stage was aged timber – treading the boards indeed. The only thing that was missing was some lighting but as long as we kept our chins up (literally) we would be easily seen by all.
Before we knew it we were on stage faced with a full house of expectant children (complete with red noses) and many equally expectant adults. We decided to get in on the photography business and persuaded one of Colm’s bell volunteers to grab a snap of us with all of our new fellow red noses in the background – and we were sufficiently impressed with the results to try and repeat this in every show.
After the show, Colm and Flora continued to entertain and enthrall our audience while we packed the car and we managed to exit without running any children over (no mean feat considering the crowd – Shadi’s driving continuing to amaze us). We picked up an acquaintance of his called Haifa who used to live in the old centre of Hebron and who felt she might have an easier passage in with a motley crew like ours. We had to pass through 4 checkpoints – one with an airport style detector gates – before we came to Al Quds mosque. We finished with a quick walk through some of the old city, a filthy, degraded and dying place. The visit was an amazing experience made all the more so by Haifa’s admission that this was her first visit in ten years – without us non-Muslims as escorts she could not face the hassle and intimidation from the soldiers.
After a largely silent journey we finally got back to our hotel and, too tired to think, ordered pizza, watched half of a movie and went to bed, saddened, but determined to bring smiles and laughter with us when the sun rose again on this troubled landscape.
Jan 24th
We rose from our slumber to be interviewed by WAFA a Palestinian newspaper agency. The write-up came out today and it is very good – apparently – we can’t read Arabic, so we’ll have to believe our Hotel manager.
We packed up the car and went to meet the Palcircus team to discuss our rehearsal process and give advice on ways to create shows. They are impressed at how good our show is despite the mere 6 days of rehearsal – so are we!
Shadi the director of the school drove us to the Am’ari Refugee Camp, renowned for how tough it is. We warmed up in the cold corridor while somebody searched for the keys, when the door was finally opened we entered the hall and set up with the precision of a highly trained army – as a team we are working like a dream.
It was a difficult show with a lot of disruptions. An Arabic television crew interviewed the children while others strained their heads to see the show. Flora and Hillas managed not to break anything during their ladder routine on a very bouncy, holey and uneven floor. The kids rushed onto the stage at the end of the show. it seemed they really enjoyed it despite the chaos that surrounded them.
We drove from Ramallah through the checkpoints to the beautiful winding streets of Old Jeruselum. Shadi manipulated the big people carrier through anorexically skinny lanes that were built for various Gods and their little asses to swagger along. Colm closed his eyes and prayed to AXA – the God of Car Insurance.
Our second show was in a 10th centurary stone building, home to the African Centre. The cutest kids filled the arches with laughter while a more polite Palestinian media team filmed and participated. The clowns were energised by such a fantastic response.
Every night the clowns cling to their hot water bottles for warmth dreaming of their partners back home.
A running nose inside a clown nose is NOT FUNNY!
Jan 26th
Against all expectations four clowns managed to get up at 7am for Nablus where we had a great show in the Children’s centre CCC. The kids were so inspired that they chose to sing and dance afterwards rather than watch a movie and the Swedish clowns who were there praised our efforts.
Two Swedish performers Inger and Linda had just finished a female only project with Nablus circus, which ended in a show for a female audience. In Nablus, which is a very conservative and religious place, this is a great achievement, and Mahmoud is hoping this will encourage the girls to further continue with their circus activities and eventually integrate them more with the boys.
In the afternoon we went to the Old Askar refugee camp, where we’d also done a show on our previous visit and did the show. The little theatre was packed with kids who were all very attentive.
Jan 27th
Waking up at 5 am due to the official mosque calling was different to your traditional alarm clock though something to remember. The clowns finally rose and departed for “Tomorrows Youth” – a lovely centre with a huge, flat performance space, luxury we missed at some of the previous venues. The show was playful and the audience where welcoming and enthusiastic, an emotion a performer never gets tired of. Then on to a traditional lunch found in a narrow market lane – a local place for local people, where rocks hung from the ceiling and aubergines displayed their vastness.
Then on to the 45 year-old New Askar refugee camp. There we learnt that it was common for families who had been forced out to still keep their old house keys in the hope of returning one day. The reception was somewhat more edgy but this didn’t deter the clowns. Our show was enjoyed by most though it did have some difficulties of uneven ground, an audience who sat far away from the stage and a small in-house brawl.
In the evening we met up with our Swedish counterparts and headed off for a much needed meal and Hammam – the latter being a place of extreme heat and probably more importantly a good clean (well only if you’re a male that is). Flora was left to enjoy the company of other women in the hotel. There she sipped on her mint lemonade and enjoyed a more intellectual conversation than normal.
Jan 28th
Mahmoud the director of Assirk Assigar School and former tour guide gave us a tour of his wonderful bullet-holed city which has been constantly inhabited for over 6000 years. It was quiet a beautiful but emotional tour as we were shown shrines to where his friends and relatives had died during this horrible conflict. He recounted a story of a few generations of a family crushed to death when bulldozers tore down their 3 story building without notice – we fought the tears of clowns.
We loaded up and shipped out through the mountains to cross the border back to “the other side” of the wall. If only it were that simple. We found ourselves in ’Tul karm’ a cul du sac of a town, we arrived repeatedly at impassable checkpoints, unless of course we walked through the prison style cattle stiles, which was not an option for our clown mobile so we slid around the mud, bumped into a parked car and ventured back down the roads with “pot holes as big as Co.Cavan” and again found ourselves lost. Eventually after consulting with the Palestinian army, the Israeli army, neither very helpful we found a border manned or more poignantly “girled” by a few spotty teenagers with huge guns giggling at our passport photos as they sent us on our way – “Shalom”
Culture shock – 5 minutes later we were sitting in a modern rest stop with cappucinos and flat screen TVs. The grass is greener on the other side – really – it’s so green and lush, a stark contrast from the rocky terrain that we bounced through not a toilet stop ago.
Next stop Ramat Hassada, a compound for teenagers at risk, a sizable model of a MiG fighter jet welcomed us. These boys and girls are being groomed for the army. They were mainly Ethiopian immigrants and kids from difficult circumstances.
The show itself was a difficult circumstance. Despondent teenagers reacted only with apathy to anything that they experienced. The only thing that seemed to have an impression on them was Hillas on his ladder juggling. Colm decided to pack-in his audience participation number due to lack of participation. We played with fun and strong spirits and felt how strong we have become as a team and had a good laugh.
We later toasted our glasses and simultaneously said “Survival”.
Jan 29th
Sunrise…. well, almost. Our four intrepid clowns emerged from their huts into a beautiful misty morning, and feeling like ancient hunter-gatherers we secured our breakfast from the surrounding grapefruit grove. Our host Yoram had once again left us fresh bread rolls so we made a picnic basket and hit the road. The omens were looking good and the sun was already entreating us to shed our outer layers – and we were to play outdoors.
We readied ourselves for the show at Beit Noam while the staff wheeled out the majority of our audience who were in wheelchairs. Colm wisely took the precaution of enquiring from the staff which audience members would be suitable to bring up on stage and judging by the great reaction to our first number, they also placed all the rowdy members of the Centre in the front row. We all had great fun (even the soldier who showed up just before we started!), but the highlight was definitely Colm’s bells number, where he not only soundly beat his volunteers (in their wheelchairs) with his giant inflatable banana, but then proceeded to beat several members of the front row amidst peels and shrieks of joyous laughter.
After saying our goodbyes we headed north on Highway 2 and shortly before reaching Haifa, we turned off and hit…. the beach!. With the sun beating down we all fell asleep on the beach (except for Simon who showed his Irishness by staying in the car).
Jan 30th
The clowns went back to where it all started – Tiv’on circus school. A performance by the youth group brought in the masses for what will be the last of the CWB shows. An air of excitement was mixed with a dab of sadness, due to Flora feeling unwell. However, it did not affect the laughter as it was received with big smiles and other niceties.
This was cemented by a professor of psychology who said that he was expecting nothing more than a simple circus show but walked away feeling he had experienced a multitude of emotions…… cheers!
A quick get away was in order to allow a small period of relaxation, watching mundane TV and a time of reflection. We all agreed that we were lucky to have such an opportunity and it would surely be remembered for so many great and wonderful things all be it in an extremely intense manner.
As we pack away our costumes and say goodbye to the red noses we came to love and respect , all that remains to say is a big thank you and good luck.
Jan 31st
We arrived at Ben Gurion airport at 3.30am, the bags under our eyes weighing in heavy in excess luggage. We had 4 hours of Israeli airport (in)security were they searched, swabbed and scanned every single item- the mandolin, hulahoops and 8ft ladder. They confiscated our amplifier for fear of bad music and laughed at the strange items they found. One security girl jumped with fright from the loud “HONK!” of the horn.
In Conclusion -
In 16 days we played 17 shows and facilitated 3 workshops to around 2830 kids and adults in both Israel and Palestine.
‘Good News’ was a show that we are all very proud of for its quality and playfulness. The universal theme of newspapers reached audiences on both sides of the divide, tickling their funny bones.
Judging from audience responses and comments that we were given after the show the people were touched and received our show like the gift it was intended to be – a Joy.
We would like to thank all the people who made this tour possible:
ß Our kind sponsors ‘Culture Ireland’ and their board members who have continually backed us. Without their financial support we couldn’t have had the freedom to do such a good job.
ß The organisers on the ground –
o Mayes, Fadi, Shadi, Nayef and Jessica from the wonderful Palcircus team.
o Mahmoud and our generous hosts at Assirk Assigar.
o Hanita from the Israeli Circus School for all her work and support
o Liav and all the people who helped by giving us their contacts and putting us in touch with the right people.
ß Will and all at Belfast Community Circus.
ß We are grateful to our “Mammy” at home Margot and her wise husband Peter for their support.
ß To Jonathan and to all of our board for their continued contributions to the laughter.
ß To all the other CWBs in our international network for inspiring us to play.
ß A big thanks to the people who organised fundraisers and the buskers who froze to get the dosh to do this expeditition.
ß Thanks to our boyfriends, girlfriends, hot water bottles, family and friends. Not forgetting little Ahmed (Ding Ding).
ß And of course a huge thank you to the artists themselves who gave their time, talent and humour free of charge – Enore! ENCORE!!!
Peels of laughter and smiling faces resound in our memories and hopefully our public’s memory too.
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Israël/Palestine Jan 2010
Week 1
Jan 16
4am : Rendez-vous at Dublin airport….
Severe case of red eye for everyone, but spirits good and even though we’re carrying a mountain of luggage, we manage to avoid any surcharges which seems a good omen for things to come. We tucked into a dodgy Dublin airport breakfast and even though it might be our last chance to eat pork for a while we still go with the veggie option. Having cleared security, Hillas had to avail of some duty free which prompted Colm to remember to buy some adapters and so on with the first leg of the journey. Our pilot did well in getting us to Paris half an hour ahead of schedule as we only had 45 minutes to transfer, and after the longest taxi to the terminal and Flora getting an extra search at security we were still ahead of ourselves so with all the extra time we decided to treat ourselves to cafe et croissants…. which turned out to be rank! Ah well, onwards and upwards. The last four people through the gate – no prizes for guessing who. We got on the bus and after sitting for several minutes drove all of 200 metres before disembarking the bus and boarding our plane. Simon and Hillas chose their meal well (Hindu Vegetarian) as it arrived a good twenty minutes before everyone else’s regular meals, although it did contain fish which doesn’t say a lot for Hindu principles (according to Air France at any rate).
And so we arrive in Tel Aviv, four nervous clowns in the most secure airport in the world. I don’t know if it was our innocent expressions, the time of day or divine intervention from the gods of clowning but we sailed through, picked up our luggage, and realised we were one clown short of a laugh. And to mke matters worse it was Colm, who, in addition to having all the contact details for the next two weeks, also had all our expenses….. Thankfully, after what seemed like an age, he emerged on the right side of the security and we pressed on. We picked up our hire car and after some debate decided on hiring a GPS, which was installed and explained by a lovely girl called Oali who happened to be a fan of Irish dancing. After hearing that Colm was an ex member of the Riverdance (yeah yeah I know..) she jumped at the chance for a quick reel, and if our schedule had allowed would have been our tour guide gratis.
The Hotel Ophir. A lovely building on the outside, it was more like a building site within although the welcome was warm – if a little Fawltyesque. Even after our long travels Colm still manged to find the energy to haggle the price back to something like what he had been led to believe it to be and by now food was definitely on the menu. We managed to find a gorgeous place, Little Prague, serving goulash, dumplings and steins of Czech beer. We managed the equivalent of about one between us before returning to our rooms an crashing monumentally.
Jan 17
After a peaceful night, we awoke to an unseasonably hot day (24 C) and descended back into the building site for a hearty breakfast there was a little time to wander through one of the markets of Tel Aviv and marvel at the size of the avocados and aubergines (amongst other things) and catch a quick glimpse of the Mediterranean Sea. Flora also managed to find some graffiti depicting, of all things, a red nose clown – keep those omens coming. We set off for the circus school in Tiv’on and decided to have lunch in Haifa. Oali, as we christened our GPS, had some strange mannerisms and timing of instructions which prompted Flora, driving, to simply ignore her but even though we hit rush hour in Haifa we soon found a suitable place for lunch – the first of many falafel feasts (and superb coffee).
On arrival in Tiv’on we found the home of Hanita (our guardian angel) who welcomed us in with herbal tea and cake and general warmth until we suddenly realised that time was beginning to press and we would have to hurry if we were going to have time to prepare for our first show – in its new abridged format. Firstly though, we had to pop in to our accomodation and get the keys. Two beautiful self catering cabins run by an old farmer who quoted George Bernard Shaw to us, and caused us to ponder the difference between a thief and a robber. And off again at a gallop, arriving into the circus school, where there was a class on the stage but in the end that didn’t matter as we had to move everything at the last second onto the ground in front of the stage. Feeling slightly frazzled, we kicked off to an audience of enthusiastic young children at the front with several rows of slightly less inspired teenagers behind. Thankfully, they were all well behind us by the end and so we had a chance to relax and ponder the fact that we had breakfast in Dublin airport yesterday. Not for long, mind you, as we were soon immersed in the workshop – the first to involve the three groups present together, Israeli Jews, Israeli Arabs and a group of Ethiopian youths. A wonderful way for a group of clowns without borders to begin their trip.
Jan 18
After our first night in the Grapefruit yard, we found ourselves more or less well rested and enjoyed freshly pressed juice off the trees for breakfast and took off in plenty of time to meet with Hanita at the arranged spot. Hanita joined us in the car and we were on our way to Kaabiya Arabic Primary Middle school. On approaching the school gates Simon slowed down and exclaimed ‘There’s a guy beside me reversing in the car!’…and so there was, he was a friend of Hanita’s who works at the school and promptly showed us the way in. (He also sported the most impressive moustache ever…).
We quickly got changed and set up for the show on a stage in the school hall, while 400 impatient and very, very excited primary school children knocked and banged on the doors, waiting to be let in. After a little official introduction by the head master, we performed a rocking show to a crowd of rapt and smiling faces. The kids really loved the show and we were delighted when even some of the teachers proved good sports and joined in Colm’s bell number.
After we’d finished the show the kids stormed towards the stage, all trying to shake our hands and say hello, which we almost managed…then we were treated to food and drink in the principal’s office. We were joined by Hanita, Eran (former state attorney and now supporter of cross-community work), Barbara Zasloff (President of the International Centre for Contemporary Education), the principal of the school and our moustachioed friend for a very informative and at times very emotional discussion of our work, their work, the Palestinian situation etc. The principal assured us that he had never before witnessed the children in his school have so much fun and thanked us deeply. Colm talked about possibilities of touring Gaza and Edan and Barbara promised to help CWB achieve that goal as much as they could. It was also very important and encouraging to see Israelis supporting the Arab cause…there is hope.
After a well earned rest in the afternoon we set out to meet Hanita at her house, before heading to our next gig. Whilst enjoying offerings of spiced tea and dried fruit, Hanita gave us some background information about the school we were about to visit, a full time residential institution for kids who have been expelled from normal school for various reasons. Following her directions (Simon earned his first star in map reading skills) we arrived at Ramat Hadassa, were greeted at the gate and taken to the Sports Hall by one of the kids. It was pleasant to have enough warm up time and a little chat with Moshe, a teacher, about the school as well.
To be honest we were all slightly nervous about performing in front of a bunch of teenagers who seemed to be mainly interested in hip hop music, but we managed to get them on our side by interrupting Moshe’s introduction with repeated wrong entrances. We agreed that that was our best show so far, we really started playing with each other and the crowd, rocked our skill numbers and were promptly rewarded with a standing ovation by our audience.
Afterwards we were invited to one of the residential homes, that are shared by around 20 children, who again served us food, a rare treat of potatoes and soup alongside the traditional fare, followed by an exquisite desert of chocolate, Bamba and Coke…Thus high on adrenalin and preservatives, we spent two hours laughing and chatting with the kids and their live in carer from Yemen. The craic was mighty, the kids wanted to adopt us (or marry us) … and after the obligatory good-bye photograph and a 20minute good bye, we were off again to our homes in the grapefruit yard.
We all agreed that we’d had an amazing day, with two beautiful shows that had lifted our spirits and inspired us for the rest of our trip.
Jan 19
We start on the road on time but how we get to our destination of Ramallah has its difficulties. We type in Ramallah into our GPS but the Israeli map reader doesn’t acknowledge it. The irony! We go for the more tried and tested GPS – Flora. She finds the motorway and we speed off viewing many picturesque landscapes, bridges and tunnels. The Israelis love their bridges. Why put a road on the ground when you can suspend it in the sky.
The closer we get to the border, the more the conflict becomes apparent. Flowers and trees are replaced by metal netting and concrete walls. We find a turn off and head to the check-point. Wrong one!
Check point 2, and everyone has passports ready. I’m under the impression that you should only talk when talked to. Slowly we creep to the border and………. nothing. No stopping. No soldiers. Sweet.
Within seconds the landscape changes dramatically. Gone are the pristine motorways and welcome to narrow roads with no markings and people driving towards you on the wrong side (even at roundabouts).
We finally get to the circus school by getting a personal convey by Shadi, (circus school teacher and office worker). We meet the rest of the crew who are warm and welcoming, as are all the people we meet. After seeing their space which is a basketball court in the secondary school we sit and relax. We sit, eat and hear personal stories of how people are treated by Israel. It becomes apparent that life is truly difficult and somewhat overwhelming. Now that I hear both stories of the conflict all I think about is how stupid war is. Fear is abundant and suffocating a lot of the good work done by charities like the circus schools we have met already. After a great feeling of doing shows the day before you now sit and think. Are we actually doing any good?
Later that night after arriving at our hotel we sit and review the day. A much needed time for me who is rather tired and somewhat confused. After reassurances from our team as a collective we retire to our cold rooms armed with hot water bottles bought at the local pharmacy and get some much needed rest.
Jan 20th
After 2 bumpy hours of driving we arrive at the Freedom Theatre, Jenin, a ray of light in a refugee camp. We are still bleary eyed from getting up at the crack of dawn as we step out onto the broken pavement with our guides from the Palcircus, Fadi and Nayef, who have organised the show for us. (Shucran!)
Smiling children rush to meet us as we unpack the car and load into the theatre. Colm sticks a pair of socks under his hat as dog ears and chases the laughing children- Wooof, WOOOF!
Just as we were ready to do our show Flora plugs in our ipod and the socket short circuits with a loud bang – Oops! This is only the beginning.
We start the show playing a game with the audience – they blow us over when they breath out, the clowns slide, tumble along the floor and into the back wall as the children blow a happy gale at the stage.
Five minutes into the show the power cuts out completely and all the lights go out in the theatre, the kids scream with excitement, the clowns unperturbed by the darkness play with the gift that has been given them until the lights come back on. There is another cheer and we continue into Simons now famous football number. The kids are wowed when he spins a ball on his finger and places another spinning ball on top it. Hundreds of eyes light up with disbelief.
Flora’s hula hoops fly to every girls delight, Hillas juggles newspapers while defying Iasac Newton on top of a ladder and Colm hits the kids on the head with an oversized inflatable banana while they play the ‘Blue Danube’ on musical bells.
“Walk this Way” pumps out on the speaker and the children clap along enthusiastically as the clowns flip around the stage with comic turns and deft skill until suddenly the power cuts out on the speaker and the music stops (as does the clapping and the flips). Everybody looks to Hillas as he miraculously raises the sound from the dead (we are in the Holy Lands after all). We bust back into the high energy number and the clapping resumes. To finish – the audience literally blows the clowns off the stage with gusts of wind (mingled with laughter).
Outside a real storm rages and rivers flow down the streets of Jenin as we float the car back to Ramallah through check points with frozen peas soothing sore backs and bottoms.
Jan 21st
In the morning we went to Palcircus, we got a little lost on the way but eventually found it, thanks to Mr Fish and Chip. We had a quick meeting with our hosts to plan the workshop, which was specifically aimed at the trainers who work at Palcircus: Nayef, Mays, Fadi and a group of older kids who have worked and performed with them for quite some time.
We started off with a Name Game, which by default turned into an improvisation and although that was not altogether intended, it actually gave us a good idea of the participants’ performance abilities and we had a good laugh too!
After a quick warm up, Flora and Hillas taught Partner Acrobatics, and Simon and Colm taught Unicycle and Juggling. In general, the guys are highly focused and very eager to learn i.e. a joy to work with. At the end Hillas tried a hand to hand with Nayeff and almost got it… ‘I will dream about this tonight’ (quote Nayef).
We all noticed the marked difference between the refugee camp and the ‘normal’ Ramallah, in terms of lack of infrastructure (bad roads, rubbish etc). Our audience, a bunch of excited smiling kids, was ready and waiting and we quickly set up for the show and entered, clown noses at the ready! However we were not prepared for Clowns Without Borders on Ice. To do us a favour the organisers had washed the tiled floor prior to our arrival, which made the floor extremely (!!!) slippy, which lead to some funny and some dangerous moments. Nevertheless we managed to play a great show, have lots of fun and kept looking out for each other to avoid broken bones. After the show we enjoyed a bit of play with some of the kids who were eager to meet us, especially some of the girls who had taken a shine to Flora.
After clearing up we were invited to tea and biscuits in the office and on the way out Flora did a little impromptu handshake and handstand workshop with a few of the kids who were still there – obviously intrigued by their strange visitors and eager to play more.
In the evening we had the most gorgeous dinner at a local restaurant in down town Ramallah followed by coffee and hooka in the infamous “Stars and Bucks” – corporations eat your heart out. We planned the workshop for the following day and then went back to the hotel for some friendly chats with our fellow guests from the Palestinian Athletics Association.
Tired but happy we went to bed, ready for another day….
Jan 22nd
Another early start for the clowns. It was off to the Palcircus school again where we had a packed day of workshops and performance. We led a 4 hour workshop which was taken by the local Ramallah group. Another workshop was taken by an eager group of acrobats from Jenin who left at dawn to get there. The kids like most people we met where superb. Sucking up information like leeches…. (nice ones of course)
The workshop was full on. Who would have thought we could get through so muchwork – skipping, clown, diabolo, juggling, unicycle, hula hoop , aerial tissue and a multitude of acrobalance and tumbling.
While the preparation of the show which had moments of madness – Hillas having the joys of playing with the local electrics. Simon and Flora warming up around the enthusiastic participants still training we finally got the clan together 2 minutes before the show and then we were off
The show itself was memorable as always. A highlight for all was ‘Colms bell number, young kids wandering all over the stage not following instructions, taking strops and being funny.
That evening we went to dinner and talked over the days proceedings. It becomes noticeable that this is the only time we can reflect, chat to each other and relax.
Jan 23rd
Finally, a HOT shower. The athletics team have left and as there are now only 4 guests – us clowns – we can now have a real scrub. Well fed and fighting fit, we headed off at 8.07 to pick up our chauffeur at 8 sharp. With Shadi at the wheel we were all free to relax and take in the scenery (in between closing our eyes and praying to whichever God we might choose to deliver us intact through the traffic of Ramallah and beyond). En route we picked up Jessica, our new American circus pal.
We had a slightly longer journey to Hebron than anticipated as in Palestine journeys are rarely as the crow flies, or even as an inebriated vulture might fly. We unloaded into the theatre, a beautiful old theatre at that. The audience would be arrayed in an arc before us and the stage was aged timber – treading the boards indeed. The only thing that was missing was some lighting but as long as we kept our chins up (literally) we would be easily seen by all.
Before we knew it we were on stage faced with a full house of expectant children (complete with red noses) and many equally expectant adults. We decided to get in on the photography business and persuaded one of Colm’s bell volunteers to grab a snap of us with all of our new fellow red noses in the background – and we were sufficiently impressed with the results to try and repeat this in every show.
After the show, Colm and Flora continued to entertain and enthrall our audience while we packed the car and we managed to exit without running any children over (no mean feat considering the crowd – Shadi’s driving continuing to amaze us). We picked up an acquaintance of his called Haifa who used to live in the old centre of Hebron and who felt she might have an easier passage in with a motley crew like ours. We had to pass through 4 checkpoints – one with an airport style detector gates – before we came to Al Quds mosque. We finished with a quick walk through some of the old city, a filthy, degraded and dying place. The visit was an amazing experience made all the more so by Haifa’s admission that this was her first visit in ten years – without us non-Muslims as escorts she could not face the hassle and intimidation from the soldiers.
After a largely silent journey we finally got back to our hotel and, too tired to think, ordered pizza, watched half of a movie and went to bed, saddened, but determined to bring smiles and laughter with us when the sun rose again on this troubled landscape.
Jan 24th
We rose from our slumber to be interviewed by WAFA a Palestinian newspaper agency. The write-up came out today and it is very good – apparently – we can’t read Arabic, so we’ll have to believe our Hotel manager.
We packed up the car and went to meet the Palcircus team to discuss our rehearsal process and give advice on ways to create shows. They are impressed at how good our show is despite the mere 6 days of rehearsal – so are we!
Shadi the director of the school drove us to the Am’ari Refugee Camp, renowned for how tough it is. We warmed up in the cold corridor while somebody searched for the keys, when the door was finally opened we entered the hall and set up with the precision of a highly trained army – as a team we are working like a dream.
It was a difficult show with a lot of disruptions. An Arabic television crew interviewed the children while others strained their heads to see the show. Flora and Hillas managed not to break anything during their ladder routine on a very bouncy, holey and uneven floor. The kids rushed onto the stage at the end of the show. it seemed they really enjoyed it despite the chaos that surrounded them.
We drove from Ramallah through the checkpoints to the beautiful winding streets of Old Jeruselum. Shadi manipulated the big people carrier through anorexically skinny lanes that were built for various Gods and their little asses to swagger along. Colm closed his eyes and prayed to AXA – the God of Car Insurance.
Our second show was in a 10th centurary stone building, home to the African Centre. The cutest kids filled the arches with laughter while a more polite Palestinian media team filmed and participated. The clowns were energised by such a fantastic response.
Every night the clowns cling to their hot water bottles for warmth dreaming of their partners back home.
A running nose inside a clown nose is NOT FUNNY!
Jan 26th
Against all expectations four clowns managed to get up at 7am for Nablus where we had a great show in the Children’s centre CCC. The kids were so inspired that they chose to sing and dance afterwards rather than watch a movie and the Swedish clowns who were there praised our efforts.
Two Swedish performers Inger and Linda had just finished a female only project with Nablus circus, which ended in a show for a female audience. In Nablus, which is a very conservative and religious place, this is a great achievement, and Mahmoud is hoping this will encourage the girls to further continue with their circus activities and eventually integrate them more with the boys.
In the afternoon we went to the Old Askar refugee camp, where we’d also done a show on our previous visit and did the show. The little theatre was packed with kids who were all very attentive.
Jan 27th
Waking up at 5 am due to the official mosque calling was different to your traditional alarm clock though something to remember. The clowns finally rose and departed for “Tomorrows Youth” – a lovely centre with a huge, flat performance space, luxury we missed at some of the previous venues. The show was playful and the audience where welcoming and enthusiastic, an emotion a performer never gets tired of. Then on to a traditional lunch found in a narrow market lane – a local place for local people, where rocks hung from the ceiling and aubergines displayed their vastness.
Then on to the 45 year-old New Askar refugee camp. There we learnt that it was common for families who had been forced out to still keep their old house keys in the hope of returning one day. The reception was somewhat more edgy but this didn’t deter the clowns. Our show was enjoyed by most though it did have some difficulties of uneven ground, an audience who sat far away from the stage and a small in-house brawl.
In the evening we met up with our Swedish counterparts and headed off for a much needed meal and Hammam – the latter being a place of extreme heat and probably more importantly a good clean (well only if you’re a male that is). Flora was left to enjoy the company of other women in the hotel. There she sipped on her mint lemonade and enjoyed a more intellectual conversation than normal.
Jan 28th
Mahmoud the director of Assirk Assigar School and former tour guide gave us a tour of his wonderful bullet-holed city which has been constantly inhabited for over 6000 years. It was quiet a beautiful but emotional tour as we were shown shrines to where his friends and relatives had died during this horrible conflict. He recounted a story of a few generations of a family crushed to death when bulldozers tore down their 3 story building without notice – we fought the tears of clowns.
We loaded up and shipped out through the mountains to cross the border back to “the other side” of the wall. If only it were that simple. We found ourselves in ’Tul karm’ a cul du sac of a town, we arrived repeatedly at impassable checkpoints, unless of course we walked through the prison style cattle stiles, which was not an option for our clown mobile so we slid around the mud, bumped into a parked car and ventured back down the roads with “pot holes as big as Co.Cavan” and again found ourselves lost. Eventually after consulting with the Palestinian army, the Israeli army, neither very helpful we found a border manned or more poignantly “girled” by a few spotty teenagers with huge guns giggling at our passport photos as they sent us on our way – “Shalom”
Culture shock – 5 minutes later we were sitting in a modern rest stop with cappucinos and flat screen TVs. The grass is greener on the other side – really – it’s so green and lush, a stark contrast from the rocky terrain that we bounced through not a toilet stop ago.
Next stop Ramat Hassada, a compound for teenagers at risk, a sizable model of a MiG fighter jet welcomed us. These boys and girls are being groomed for the army. They were mainly Ethiopian immigrants and kids from difficult circumstances.
The show itself was a difficult circumstance. Despondent teenagers reacted only with apathy to anything that they experienced. The only thing that seemed to have an impression on them was Hillas on his ladder juggling. Colm decided to pack-in his audience participation number due to lack of participation. We played with fun and strong spirits and felt how strong we have become as a team and had a good laugh.
We later toasted our glasses and simultaneously said “Survival”.
Jan 29th
Sunrise…. well, almost. Our four intrepid clowns emerged from their huts into a beautiful misty morning, and feeling like ancient hunter-gatherers we secured our breakfast from the surrounding grapefruit grove. Our host Yoram had once again left us fresh bread rolls so we made a picnic basket and hit the road. The omens were looking good and the sun was already entreating us to shed our outer layers – and we were to play outdoors.
We readied ourselves for the show at Beit Noam while the staff wheeled out the majority of our audience who were in wheelchairs. Colm wisely took the precaution of enquiring from the staff which audience members would be suitable to bring up on stage and judging by the great reaction to our first number, they also placed all the rowdy members of the Centre in the front row. We all had great fun (even the soldier who showed up just before we started!), but the highlight was definitely Colm’s bells number, where he not only soundly beat his volunteers (in their wheelchairs) with his giant inflatable banana, but then proceeded to beat several members of the front row amidst peels and shrieks of joyous laughter.
After saying our goodbyes we headed north on Highway 2 and shortly before reaching Haifa, we turned off and hit…. the beach!. With the sun beating down we all fell asleep on the beach (except for Simon who showed his Irishness by staying in the car).
Jan 30th
The clowns went back to where it all started – Tiv’on circus school. A performance by the youth group brought in the masses for what will be the last of the CWB shows. An air of excitement was mixed with a dab of sadness, due to Flora feeling unwell. However, it did not affect the laughter as it was received with big smiles and other niceties.
This was cemented by a professor of psychology who said that he was expecting nothing more than a simple circus show but walked away feeling he had experienced a multitude of emotions…… cheers!
A quick get away was in order to allow a small period of relaxation, watching mundane TV and a time of reflection. We all agreed that we were lucky to have such an opportunity and it would surely be remembered for so many great and wonderful things all be it in an extremely intense manner.
As we pack away our costumes and say goodbye to the red noses we came to love and respect , all that remains to say is a big thank you and good luck.
Jan 31st
We arrived at Ben Gurion airport at 3.30am, the bags under our eyes weighing in heavy in excess luggage. We had 4 hours of Israeli airport (in)security were they searched, swabbed and scanned every single item- the mandolin, hulahoops and 8ft ladder. They confiscated our amplifier for fear of bad music and laughed at the strange items they found. One security girl jumped with fright from the loud “HONK!” of the horn.
In Conclusion -
In 16 days we played 17 shows and facilitated 3 workshops to around 2830 kids and adults in both Israel and Palestine.
‘Good News’ was a show that we are all very proud of for its quality and playfulness. The universal theme of newspapers reached audiences on both sides of the divide, tickling their funny bones.
Judging from audience responses and comments that we were given after the show the people were touched and received our show like the gift it was intended to be – a Joy.
We would like to thank all the people who made this tour possible:
ß Our kind sponsors ‘Culture Ireland’ and their board members who have continually backed us. Without their financial support we couldn’t have had the freedom to do such a good job.
ß The organisers on the ground –
o Mayes, Fadi, Shadi, Nayef and Jessica from the wonderful Palcircus team.
o Mahmoud and our generous hosts at Assirk Assigar.
o Hanita from the Israeli Circus School for all her work and support
o Liav and all the people who helped by giving us their contacts and putting us in touch with the right people.
ß Will and all at Belfast Community Circus.
ß We are grateful to our “Mammy” at home Margot and her wise husband Peter for their support.
ß To Jonathan and to all of our board for their continued contributions to the laughter.
ß To all the other CWBs in our international network for inspiring us to play.
ß A big thanks to the people who organised fundraisers and the buskers who froze to get the dosh to do this expeditition.
ß Thanks to our boyfriends, girlfriends, hot water bottles, family and friends. Not forgetting little Ahmed (Ding Ding).
ß And of course a huge thank you to the artists themselves who gave their time, talent and humour free of charge – Enore! ENCORE!!!
Peels of laughter and smiling faces resound in our memories and hopefully our public’s memory too.